I love the way some varieties can inveigle their way into the landscape, such as barbera in the Yarra, and rise to the occasion. Among all those French grapes, this is the little wine that could. It’s fragrant, different, really spicy with juniper and bitter herbs dousing the dark cherries within. Medium bodied with neat acidity, just-so, light tannins and savoury stamp. Juicy and delicious.